mrissa: (Default)
mrissa ([personal profile] mrissa) wrote2004-12-13 09:44 am

Someone to blame

I've seen lots of people link to this entry, the one about the Size 6 Harem. It frustrates me immensely, because the person who reposted it says in a comment that she believes the story literally, that the writer went to a large department store and was told they didn't sell skirts as large as a 14 or a 16 and focused 4s and 6s. And I call bullshit. Show me the "large American department store" that doesn't stock skirts in 14s or 16s, and I will show you the empty building with the tumbleweed blowing through it. Every large American department store I've ever seen has had a "plus sizes" section that went larger than a 16 -- and no, I'm not claiming that the larger sizes are stocked well or even adequately, but I am claiming that it's absolutely ridiculous to claim they're not there at all, if you're talking about a 14 or a 16 as a "larger size." (Which it isn't: I forget whether the average American woman wears a 12 or a 14, but it's one of the two. I think it's high time to recenter the norm and add on a "small women's department" in addition to the "large women's department," because they're calling things large that are average. But they're stocking at least some of them, is the point, and this essay claims they just aren't.)

Show me the "large American department store" that stocks mostly 4s and 6s, and I will get my size-4 ass over there right now. I will not stop to shower and change out of my pajamas and comb my hair. I will only put shoes on because it's legally required. If they're focused on 4s and 6s, maybe there will be something in there that fits me. Maybe if they vanity-size the 4s into what should really be 6s or 8s, there's some chance they'll carry a 2 that'll fit me -- and a 2, not a 1, not a straight-line teenager-shaped garment.

Generally they don't. Those claims in that essay were just not true, and I don't think they were harmlessly untrue, either.

Most women I know have a hard time buying clothing, because women's clothes are supposed to be more fitted than men's. I'm pretty sure many, maybe most, of us have thought, "It can't be like this for everybody." Actually, it can. When you take a really wide range of body shapes and sizes and try to standardize them into a simple numerical system, it is possible for the average to work well for no one. We shouldn't mistake the problem of averaging across a sample that isn't bell-curve shaped on more than one axis for the problem of thinking everybody ought to be a certain size. We have both problems, but not manifested as they're described in the linked essay.

People who listen to this kind of essay uncritically end up thinking that the system is skewed in favor of me and people like me. I'm average height, I'm on the thin side, I'm fairly curvy. It must be all my fault. Clothes must be made for me. Guess what? They're not. They just plain aren't. Some designs are ideal for skinny girls with boobs. They're flattering. They're pretty. And they're usually actually constructed for stocky girls with significantly less chest. Many of the styles that most flatter a thin, curvy figure are cut to give the illusion of that figure rather than actually fitting on it. Some of my women friends have claimed that I "can wear anything [I] want and it'll all look good on [me]." That's very sweet, but also very wrong. A wrap dress cut for my body type would indeed probably look fine, but a wrap dress intended to make someone else's body type look like mine is going to look ridiculous on me, and that's mostly what the stores sell, because they believe they'll be able to sell more of them. They may be right; they're in this business and I'm not. But it's destructive to blame each other for clothing problems, and it's destructive to assume the system is geared to cater to someone it's utterly failing.

Once in high school, I was having a particularly bad day, even by high school standards, and my locker jammed, and I kicked it and shouted, "I HATE THIS PLACE!" And the stoner guy with the locker next to me, the kid in the tatty metal band T-shirts who smelled as though he hadn't gone as many as 5 minutes without a joint in the last 4 years, blinked at me in shock. "You hate this place?" he said. "I hate this damn place so much!" I said.

He pried the locker open for me, shaking his head. "Even the brains hate it here. Hey!" And he called this amazing situation to the attention of a passing friend. "Hey, guess what? Even the brains hate it here." His friend stared at me incredulously. I reaffirmed my feelings about Ralston High School: "I can't stand it. Why do you think I'm trying so hard to get out of here early?" They hadn't thought about it that way. And from then on, we weren't friends exactly, but we were certainly friendly. We were fellow sufferers. We talked from time to time. He had thought that the system that was making him miserable was designed for my benefit and my enjoyment. He had thought that the whole institution was about making things good for "the brains." Once he figured out that it wasn't actually about that at all, I was no longer the enemy. And we actually were people to each other.

That's what I want here. I want to recognize that yes, being smart in high school made some things much easier for me, and yes, being thin makes some things easier for me, too. I just don't want there to be mistakes about what those things are. Some people try to go the other way and pity the skinny girls: "Oh, you poor dear, you must starve yourself for society's notions of beauty." No. I have a fairly small appetite, I get moderate exercise, I got decent genes, and for heaven's sake, I'm 26. I haven't had a kid. I haven't hit any of the major metabolic bumps people's bodies throw at them. I am not a starving waif under the thumb of the patriarchy, and I'm not an arrogant entitlement-mentality shopper, buying from an abundance of 4s and laughing at the lack of 14s. I have a hard time buying decent jeans. Just like most of the rest of you.

The essayist also blames men, which I think is destructive and untrue: other women are much stricter and snarkier about enforcing standards of appearance than men are. And the essayist doesn't seem to understand subtle gender dimorphism. Women are, on the average, smaller than men, so it doesn't take a rocket scientist to understand why most married women have husbands larger than themselves. [livejournal.com profile] seagrit is shorter than all three of her brothers, and it's not because her parents starved her and kept her from getting healthy activity. If my parents had had a son, odds are extremely good that he'd be taller than 5'6". This is not a subtle social plot. This is biology.

So we read stuff like this, and we link to stuff like this, and it frustrates me, because the essayist clearly had some good points and some good images, but she veered off into counterfactual claims, and very few people seem to have a big problem with that. Almost everyone I read who linked to it said they thought it was "interesting" or that they found some of the images striking, not that they thought it was right through and through. That's a good thing. What's not a good thing is that the essayist felt she needed to make her points that way in the first place.

[identity profile] baronlaw.livejournal.com 2004-12-13 08:51 am (UTC)(link)
Bravo for critical thinking! I found the story implausible too, but thought of it as more a parable to illustrate a point then a factual story. Also do not think men have clothing all that much easier then woman. Although it may not be as fitted it is still suited to some imaginary "average" guy. Maybe I should say mythical average guy size.

[identity profile] columbina.livejournal.com 2004-12-13 08:51 am (UTC)(link)
Well, when I linked it (I don't speak for others) I said specifically that parts of it are best taken as a parable/metaphor and not the literal truth. I didn't believe the store with only 4s and 6s either unless she's in one of those teen-beat stores, whose sizes are truly sometimes ridiculous. But I also think you are taking this as "Oh, the women's clothing world is a lot easier if you are a size 4," and I didn't get that from the essay. As far as I can tell American women's clothing sucks equally for all women. The primary points *I* wanted people to take away from the essay were, "Here is an alien, essentially, a stranger to the system, pointing out that the Empress has no clothes. Listen to her because she may be right, and wonder how we got into a system that allows this ridiculousness in the first place."

I have shopped for women's clothes a lot - for myself, for others, alone, and with others - far more than I have shopped for men's clothes. And every time I go, I say, "Why do the women tolerate this? Why don't they revolt? Why have women not conspired to take back their own system?" I agree that it may be a tad simplistic to just Blame the Patriarchy and have done, but that certainly strikes me as a good place to start looking for the problem, and if the essay makes people wonder about these issues - and the social ramifications of them - for even a second, then it's done something worthwhile.

[identity profile] columbina.livejournal.com 2004-12-13 08:58 am (UTC)(link)
I have some sympathy with what you say, as someone who does not fit mythical average guy sizes (I have to buy dress shirts from special places because I have a sleeve length and a collar size which are not often seen in conjunction with one another) ... but the fact remains, I now buy those dress shirts ONLINE most of the time because they are cheaper; I buy my jeans online because no one else carries them anymore (NON-preshrunk 501's) ... and I can buy these things and more with reasonable confidence because I know that, in men's pants, a 36 waist and a 36 inseam means the same thing no matter where I get them. Don't underestimate that. Many women have told me they envy men that ability to walk in and know that a pair of pants or a dress shirt will fit just because of the numbers. Meanwhile a size 14 dress is not the same size dress from one store to the next. Sometimes not even vaguely the same size. It's a true mess.

[identity profile] wilfulcait.livejournal.com 2004-12-13 09:03 am (UTC)(link)
But her punchline was "this is as oppressive as harems and purdah" which is nonsense. For heaven's sake, I can leave the house in a brown paper bag if I want; I can go to work in slacks and a sweater; I have a whole mailorder industry. The bottom line of her essay was harmful nonsense.

[identity profile] magentamn.livejournal.com 2004-12-13 09:10 am (UTC)(link)
If this is a true story, I think she probably went in the sort of very upscale, snotty, New York department store where the sales help has the attitude that you are lucky they are letting you spend outrageous amounts of money on their shit. I don't know of any large store that wouldn't have 14 and 16 a-plenty.

And clothing sizes in this country are BS. They don't fit anyone. I've spent a lot of my life in jeans and a t-shirt because t-shirts always fit, and you can always find a few pairs of jeans that fit, somehow.

[identity profile] mrissa.livejournal.com 2004-12-13 09:10 am (UTC)(link)
Why don't women revolt? I'll tell you why women don't revolt. Because revolting means we have to sew our own damn clothes again, and we just don't have the time. Because as frustrating and as time-consuming as it is to go shopping, women can buy crappy clothes in less time and effort than we think it will take us to learn to sew well enough to tailor, shop for patterns, shop for fabric, and actually sew the stupid things. Never mind finding decent patterns and colors in fabric stores, either. We don't revolt because as sucky as this is, it is an improvement to making all girls spend most of their childhoods learning the skills the essayist takes for granted in her own neighborhood tailor, at the expense of other skills like calculus and French.

In my own family the choice of how to spend time is particularly clear: my mom learned to tailor clothes with her "extra" periods in high school. I took the senior math seminar as a sophomore and learned to solve integral equations. I have Samuel L. Jackson's character in "Long Kiss Goodnight" yelling in my head here: "And I'm NOT -- GOING -- BACK!"

[identity profile] mrissa.livejournal.com 2004-12-13 09:12 am (UTC)(link)
I wonder if women of our general social group are just more willing to scour the racks by any means necessary to find jeans that fit. I know I am. If I had in mind, say, dark brown cotton slacks, I would give up after three or four stores. But jeans? Gotta have jeans! When I found jeans that fit me in Boston for WorldCon, I bought four pairs and ordered two more from the store's website when I got home. I mean, jeans.

This may be a chicken-and-egg question.

[identity profile] mrissa.livejournal.com 2004-12-13 09:14 am (UTC)(link)
Yes, I think so, too. One of the flaws in American culture just now is that we're eager to bend over backwards and agree that really nothing we do is any better than anywhere else. In fact, some things are better and others are worse, and sorting out which is which is a valuable thing to do.
ext_12575: dendrophilous = fond of trees (Default)

[identity profile] dendrophilous.livejournal.com 2004-12-13 09:14 am (UTC)(link)
That story has to be made up, especially if it was really a large department store rather than a boutique.

I'm a size 12/14, used to be an 18, and I have never wandered into a department store that did not stock my size. Plenty of smaller stores (like Casual Corner or Ann Taylor) don't have much if anything above a 12 (and when I was an 18 I could only shop at the department stores), but they usually have *something*, and they aren't "large department stores" anyway.

Or maybe the woman in the story got to the department store too late. The sizes 10-14 are always the first ones to disappear, based on my digging through racks full of 4, 6, 8, and 16s. :)

[identity profile] mrissa.livejournal.com 2004-12-13 09:20 am (UTC)(link)
I agree with C.: men may not be shaped the way clothing companies expect them to be, but you at least have some hope that a number means something that maps to an external reality.

I buy clothes for [livejournal.com profile] markgritter and [livejournal.com profile] timprov from time to time, and no, not everything fits them perfectly off the rack, but most of the "correct" size will appear to be within social standards of acceptable fits of men's trousers. Not GQ standards, sure, but men don't seem to have talked each other into taking GQ standards all that seriously.

And really, I think it's easy for men to underestimate the difficulty of fitting female hips and waist in combination. Some of my male college friends were trying to tell me that I could just buy boys' jeans and "put a belt on." Ummmmmm...no. When you can store the latest Neal Stephenson novel in the waistband of your pants, turned sideways, and still have room for a couple of magazines, that is not what we call "fitting."

[identity profile] mrissa.livejournal.com 2004-12-13 09:23 am (UTC)(link)
They'll usually ship far fewer of the sizes on the ends of the bell-curve. So on the one hand, many, many more women wear 10s to 14s and will buy the clothing and take it home right away; on the other hand, if even one or two other women buy the 4, I am SOL, because one or two is all they ever got, and they can't check back stock, because it just won't be there.

This is why the XS sections of the clearance racks are always the largest, and why they're often only composed of the really ugly stuff.

[identity profile] baronlaw.livejournal.com 2004-12-13 09:28 am (UTC)(link)
I have often times wondered why womens pants at least do not use a "waist x length" measurement. Is there some sort of history for only using sizes. Is it a result of women traditionally wearing dresses when then invited the concept of numbered sizes?

[identity profile] baronlaw.livejournal.com 2004-12-13 09:29 am (UTC)(link)
It sounds like they should at least standardize the sizes so you have some hope that a "14" is really a "14" from place to place.

[identity profile] mrissa.livejournal.com 2004-12-13 09:33 am (UTC)(link)
It's the hips. Seriously, this is exactly what I mean by guys having a hard time figuring out how much difference hips can make. [livejournal.com profile] dichroic and I talked about this when I bought my jeans that actually fit, because we wear the same numerical size and are shaped fairly differently within it. (I've started to think we should e-mail each other: "Hey, I tried on brand such-and-such, and it was totally wrong, maybe you should give it a try.")

And yes, sizing started when women were wearing garments that required at least four measurements (length, bust, waist, and hip), and nobody really wanted to have to solve a matrix to buy a dress or a dress pattern.

[identity profile] mrissa.livejournal.com 2004-12-13 09:34 am (UTC)(link)
I'd like it if they'd standardize, say, the hip measurement, rather than the whole size. Because standardizing the whole size means having no hope of finding a fit anywhere, whereas going in with one fixed data point and seeing how they've cut the other parts seems reasonable-ish, sort of.

[identity profile] truepenny.livejournal.com 2004-12-13 09:35 am (UTC)(link)
One thing she's talking about is externalized vs. internalized oppression, and in that respect, I thought the essay was very interesting--although possibly not entirely in the way she meant it to be. Because she seems to want to take the polemical stance that Men Oppress Women, and her own evidence refutes her argument. The people we see oppressing women in this essay are, hey, other women. The salesclerk in New York and Mernissi's own mother.

That's why patriarchy is pernicious and pervasive. Not because men are stepping on women to get to the top, but because women are stepping on other women. The special gift of Western phallocentric, misogynistic culture is to make us hurt ourselves. Externalized oppression is simpler: the Taliban, for example, are oppressing women, deliberately and with malice aforethought. But that also takes a lot of work. Internalized oppression ... wind us up and watch us go.

This was something I found very frustrating when I was taking classes as an undergraduate (Women's Studies minor); over and over again, my classmates (including women who should have been old enough to know better) persisted in conflating "patriarchy" with "men." And, no, that's not how it works. Patriarchy may benefit men, but that doesn't mean they control it or practice it deliberately. Many men--most men in the circles I frequent--don't even like it.

Patriarchy isn't monolithic, and it isn't a conspiracy of men against women. And so, while her core insight was quite valid--although, I might add, not new, and not surprising (Naomi Wolf said it equally simplistically but with great fervor in The Beauty Myth in 1991)--the reductive nature of her argument and her persistent reification of ideology made the essay ultimately unsatisfying and intellectually weak.

[identity profile] songwind.livejournal.com 2004-12-13 09:35 am (UTC)(link)
I think that the sizing system is one part smoke-and-mirrors and another part avoidance. Considering how uptight many women get over wearing a "22", imagine the reaction if they started using inches and their pants were suddenly a "44" or "50". This obviously doesn't apply universally, but considering the amount of wearing uncomfortable pants, laying down on the bed to zip things, and brassiers with extra breasts spilling out the top like they are a terrier, it seems that women as a cultural unit are not into admitting what size they actually are.

[identity profile] songwind.livejournal.com 2004-12-13 09:36 am (UTC)(link)
That's one nice thing about men's pants and dress shirts - we have multiple fits that we look for, so we can buy appropriate inseam AND waist, not some mythical size that causes me to have six inches of extra trousers because my waist is so large. Dress shirts are similar - neck size and shirt size. And we get to assign sleeve length if we get really ambitious and get fitted for a suit.

[identity profile] baronlaw.livejournal.com 2004-12-13 09:41 am (UTC)(link)
So one part fashion conspiracy, one part denial.

[identity profile] mrissa.livejournal.com 2004-12-13 09:43 am (UTC)(link)
Ill-fitting bras are not always a matter of wanting to be a different size. Sometimes it's the only thing we can find that's even close. Sometimes we buy a well-fitting bra only to find that the elastic constricts or relaxes when worn and washed, even on the delicate cycle, and then we've shelled out $20, $40, $60, $80 for an ill-fitting bra and have no reason to believe the next $20, $40, etc. will be better-spent.

I know women who buy clothes from a given brand because they can be a 6 when really they're a 10. I had a male friend who did the same thing: he was in the middle of losing weight and bought pants he knew full well were cut at least two inches more generously than indicated, because, damn it, he wanted to be that size. So it's not just a girl thing. Men do plaster it across their butts in some brands of jeans, which is not something you could ever get women to do, generally.

[identity profile] baronlaw.livejournal.com 2004-12-13 09:45 am (UTC)(link)
Actually even though mens pants are usually accurate as to length and waist. (But don't get me started on the complete lack of "odd numbered" waist sizes after you get past a 32 inch waist.) I have found that the standard mens dress shirt measurements of sleeve length and neck size to be entirely lacking. I have very long arms and a medium sized neck. Since they base the chest and "waist" diameter of the shirt based on sleeve length. I often times have to tuck in an extra foot or so of fabric in the back of my pants or look rather like a ships sail.

[identity profile] baronlaw.livejournal.com 2004-12-13 09:47 am (UTC)(link)
Hmmm maybe a size matrix would be better. Waist, length and some sort of A,B,C, size to indicate hips?

[identity profile] roane.livejournal.com 2004-12-13 09:47 am (UTC)(link)
I didn't link to this, although I thought about it. I wonder if part of the general wild acceptance of this piece doesn't have to do with a general backlash against and bitterness towards the "fat=immoral" spin that just seems to be flooding the airwaves. Sort of a pendulum effect--swinging too far to the other extreme, like reverse discrimination. When you feel like you're on the outside, it's far too easy to bash the people you perceive as being on the inside, or to assume that their lives are so much easier than your own. Unfortunately that sort of thinking only increases the distance between people, and does nothing to resolve the original problem.

For example, I hadn't considered the fact that everyone might be in the same boat, re: a universal sizing system. I guess I've gotten so used to clothes that are either too big or too small or both that it never occurred to me that other people had the same problem as well.

Speaking as someone on the opposite end of the spectrum from you physically, I had a similar reaction to the contention that stores don't carry size 14--once I got past my own initial bitter exultation and realized there were flaws in her argument. I snorted, because Lane Bryant doesn't even carry my size anymore, so nobody size 14 better complain to ME about not finding clothes. ;) (I *heart* mail order, oh yes I do.)

While I'd argue that emotional arguments such as hers might help in terms of consciousness-raising, they're about as useful as the old "Marilyn Monroe was a size 16!" chestnut in terms of logical discussions.

[identity profile] songwind.livejournal.com 2004-12-13 09:48 am (UTC)(link)
Yeah, the "can't find bras in my size" thing wasn't what I was thinking of. I had some exes who just wouldn't admit they weren't the same size they were in high school, even though their new size when they finally broke down was still fairly common (say, insisting on wearing a 36C when they are in fact a 38D or some such). Extended-alphabet sizes with shoe-size bust sizes and other matters of engineering arcana are the exception, of course. :)

I can certainly believe that you had a guy friend who did that. Guys in their 30s even have a tendency to wear their pants under their guts in a vain attempt to pretend they aren't getting fat. I would like to point out that I never said it was just a girl thing, nor did I use any phrases like, "as opposed to men."

[identity profile] songwind.livejournal.com 2004-12-13 09:50 am (UTC)(link)
There is an alternative to "go back to the sewing room, wench." You could choose to patronize a tailor, instead. Of course, the competition of mass-produced factory clothes and declining demand means that actual garments made for us cost us out the nose. :(

Page 1 of 3